Lisbon: “God wills, man dreams, the work is born”
As the plane descends towards the city, one quickly sees why the light of Lisbon, on a background of fado music, is so highly celebrated. Destroyed in 1755 by a powerful earthquake, the city was rebuilt in pure Pombaline style. Crossed by the Tagus River, Lisbon is a city of seven hills where the smell of grilled sardines fills the air of its distinctive neighbourhoods. It has inspired and still emulates the poetry of Fernando Pessoa, who famously wrote, “God wills, man dreams, the work is born.”
WHERE TO SLEEP
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL RITZ LISBON
Classic and sophisticated, it sits in the heart of Lisbon. An excellent restaurant and one of the city’s finest spas.
Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 88
Tel. (+351) 213 811 400
Boutique hotel, distinguished and contemporary. Steps away from the leading international brand stores.
Avenida da Liberdade, 164
Tel. (+351) 210 940 300
MEMMO ALFAMA HOTEL
Rated by Wallpaper magazine among the world’s best urban hotels. Located in a typical neighbourhood close to the fado houses.
Travessa das Merceeiras, 27
Tel. (+351) 210 495 660
A small palace built in 1902, and also a lookout point providing a striking view of Lisbon. The décor is fit for a king or queen.
Rua Câmara Pestana, 23
Tel. (+351) 218 290 810
WHERE TO EAT
SOLAR DOS PRESUNTOS
One of the city’s most celebrated restaurants. Three levels, five rooms with walls covered with photographs left behind by famous guests. Quintessential Minho Province cuisine served. Treat yourself a breakfast.
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 150
Tel. (+351) (+351) 213 424 25
A place to enjoy traditional appetizers and dishes. Close to the theatres. The terrace is a showcase for the city’s hustle and bustle. A great place to be at any hour. Open daily from noon to midnight.
Praça dos Restauradores, 79
Tel. (+351) 213 465 106
It is the king of cod fish, cooked in myriad ways. Beiras and Mozambique specialties are also served. Lunch and dinner. (Find out on what nights you can catch a fado show.)
Av. Conde Valbom, 71 A
Tel. (+351) 217 960 260
In the heart of the Chiado neighbourhood, Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa returns with a creative cuisine featuring surprising combinations. Informal atmosphere.
R. Anchieta, 15
Tel. (+351) 213 470 650
Traditional dishes with modern presentation and a varied wine list. Lunch and dinner.
Av. Ventura Terra, 2
Tel. (+351) 217 591 728
TIME OUT MERCADO DA RIBEIRA
More than 40 food and drink locations. Discover the gastronomic offerings of some of Portugal’s great chefs—Alexandre Silva, Henrique Sá Pessoa, Marlene
Vieira, Miguel Castro e Silva and Miguel Laffan—at very attractive prices. Find a variety of preserves, wines and souvenirs. Monday to Wednesday from 10 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Thursday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to midnight.
Av. 24 de Julho, 50
Tel. (+351) 213 462 966
In business for over half a century, it is the seafood place. Enjoy crab, gooseneck barnacle, lobster, garlic shrimp or clams Bulhão Pato. Round off the meal with a prego, a traditional steak sandwich. Prices suitable for all budgets. From noon to midnight, closed on Mondays.
Av. Almirante Reis, 1
Tel. (+351) 218 851024
Chef Alexandre Silva’s restaurant invites you to an unusual gastronomic experience where no dish is what it seems, and where customers eat with their eyes as much as they do with their stomachs. Arrive with an open mind and enjoy a 14- or 18-moment tasting menu. High prices. Dinner only.
Rua dos Navegantes, 53B
Tel. (+351) 213 951 861
PASTÉIS DE BELÉM
Cakes are everywhere in the city, but the recipe for these has been a well-kept secret since 1837. Bet you’ll be having more than one!
Rua de Belém, 84-91
Tel. (+351) 213 637 423
Famous artisanal ice cream. Expect to line up for it! Open every day from 11 a.m. to midnight.
Rua do Carmo, 9
Tel. (+351) 213 468 431
Having belonged to the same family since 1840, it’s a favourite in the capital. A liquor made from morello cherries (ginja in Portuguese), the type of berry it is named after. It is sweet and inexpensive. To be enjoyed with or without berries. Todos os dias, das 9h às 20h.
Largo de São Domingos, 8
PLACES TO VISIT
CASTELO DE SÃO JORGE
A former royal residence. The view of the city is breathtaking and unique. Not to be missed for any reason. Accessible by foot, bus or rickshaw.
OCEANÁRIO DE LISBOA
Inaugurated in 1902 to link the Baixa district to Carmo Square, it is the city’s only vertical funicular. Its cast iron structure has been declared a national monument. As for the view, it seriously competes with Saint George’s Castle. Open every day from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.
MOSTEIRO DOS JERÓNIMOS
This Manueline monastery was built in the 16th century during the golden age of Portuguese maritime exploration. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It houses the tombs of the Portuguese navigator Vasco de Gama and the Portuguese poet Luís Vaz de Camões.
Fado – Portuguese music performed by a solo singer accompanied by a Portuguese guitar. It reflects the soul of the Lusitanian people.
S. MIGUEL D’ALFAMA
Located in the heart of the Alfama neighbourhood, it serves classic Portuguese appetizers, but the main dish always remains the fado music. Open daily from 7:00 p.m. to midnight.
Rua de São Miguel, 9-17
Tel. (+351) 968 554 422
OTHER FADO HOUSES
Adega Machado; Café Luso;Senhor do Vinho; Clube de Fado; Tasca do Chico.
A typical neighbourhood with restaurants and bars for all tastes.
The city’s trendiest club. Features DJs (electro and alternative music) and live music.
Av. Infante D. Henrique, Sta. Apolónia
Tel. (+351) 218 820 890
RED FROG SPEAKEASY
A speakeasy bar with an extensive cocktail list.
Rua do Salitre, 5A
Tel. 215 831 120
The most beautiful ones on the south shore of the Tagus.
Costa da Caparica – Surf – www.kevolutionsurf.com – Kitesurf – Fonte da Telha – www.kitesurfway.com
Small beaches at the foot of cliffs between the sea and the Arrábida Mountain.
Accessible by ferry from Setúbal across the Sado Estuary dolphin habitat.