Bairrada: A patchwork of small wine estates
A patchwork of small wine estates owned by many producers. Unique wines are produced between the clay soils of the Bairrada region and the granite and schist soils of the Dão region. The ancestral small-scale fishing traditions of Arte Xavega remain on the coast. As you go inland, you will see the Caramulo, Montemuro, Buçaco and Estrela mountains. While you wait for your meal, taste the cheese from the region and the wine that goes with it…
WHER TO SLEEP
CASA DA ÍNSUA HOTEL
Baroque style manor house oozing with history. Beautiful gardens.
Penalva do Castelo
Tel. (+351) 232 420 000
HOTEL PALÁCIO DOS MELOS
A former palace in the centre of Viseu. Between classic and modern, depending on the wing that you choose.
Tel. (+351) 232 439 290
CASAS DO LUPO
A successful campaign has been implemented to restore the granite houses in this traditional village. Innovation with a rural flavour.
Terreiro do Antunes, Lapa do Lobo, Nelas, Viseu
Tel. (+351) 232 673 441
POUSADA DE VISEU
This 19th century building was once a hospital. The architect Gonçalo Byrne, a leading expert in Portugal, gave it new life. Charm and comfort. A visit to the cloister is a must!
R. do Hospital, 5, Viseu
Tel. (+351) 232 457 320
WHERE TO EAT
MESA DE LEMOS
Architectural innovation and creative cuisine by chef Diogo Rocha. Views over the Dão wine region from the window. An enchanting place.
Quinta de Lemos, Passos de Silgueiros, Viseu
Tel. (+351) 961 158 503
MURALHA DA SÉ
Traditional flavours between granite walls, in the heart of the city. Try the Lafões lamb.
Adro de Sé, Viseu
Tel. (+351) 232 437 777
REI DOS LEITÕES
There, the suckling pig is king, but other choices abound. Sophisticated space and service.
Av. da Restauração, 17, Mealhada
Tel. (+351) 231 202 093
QUINTA DO ENCONTRO
An enormous cask rises up from the middle of the landscape. A restaurant, wine cellar and shop. Absolutely not to be missed.
São Lourenço do Bairro, Anadia, Aveiro
Tel. (+351) 231 527 155
Founded in 1964, this is the suckling pig specialist of the Bairrada.
R. das Almas, Almas da Areosa, Águeda, Aveiro
Tel. (+351) 234 666 353
CASA DA ÍNSUA
The food is delicious and beautifully wed with the house wines. Try the famous arroz de cabidela (rice with poultry cooked in its own blood).
Penalva do Castelo, Viseu
Tel. (+351) 232 420 000
BUSSACO PALACE HOTEL
This great banquet hall of the past retains its ancient style and follows recipes from the palace and the region. Romantic and inspiring.
Mata do Buçaco, Buçaco, Aveiro
Tel. (+351) 231 937 970
RETIRO DA MANHOSA
Famous for its chargrilled kid.
Tel. (+351) 232 461 573
PLACES TO VISIT
ALIANÇA UNDERGROUND MUSEUM
As well as a traditional wine cellar of Aliança Vinhos de Portugal, there is an underground museum, where bubbly and eau de vie are aged, as well as an exhibition space boasting eight collections: archaeology, mineralogy, palaeontology, ceramics, faience tiles… Visits on appointment.
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MUSEU NACIONAL GRÃO VASCO
The cathedral is home to a collection of sacred art and an important collection of 19th and 20th century Portuguese paintings. Closed Mondays.
MATA DO BUSSACO
Take a break and breathe in the fresh air. Admire the exuberant natural, cultural and architectural heritage spread over 105 hectares. Stroll along the sacred pathway, admire the fountains, the forest houses, the lookouts, the Santa Cruz convent and the Military Museum. And especially the Buçaco Palace Hotel.
PRAIA DA TOCHA
Guardians of traditional arte-xávega artisanal fishing, also called “trawl fishing,” since the 19th century. In the past, fishers took to the sea with their nets, which were then dragged to earth by the strength of men and bulls. Then, they were spread out on the sand and the fish extracted. Admire these fishers as they repair their nets.