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Small fishing town. The Guincho waves are a challenge even for the bravest. Fish and seafood on every table.

WHERE TO SLEEP

GRANDE REAL VILLA ITÁLIA HOTEL & SPA

Former residence of King Humberto II of Italy. Royal refinement.

 

R. Frei Nicolau de Oliveira, 100, Cascais

Tel. (+351) 210 966 000

 

www.granderealvillaitalia.realhotelsgroup.com

HOTEL QUINTA DAMARINHA RESORT

Your choice of rooms, suites or villas. Ideal for golf practice.

 

Quinta da Marinha, Rua das Palmeiras, Cascais

Tel. (+351) 214 860 100

 

www.quintadamarinha.com

THE OITAVOS

Modern and relaxed. Its famous pastry even participated in the MasterChef Australia television competition. Golf course.

 

R. de Oitavos, Cascais

Tel. (+351) 214 860 020

 

www.theoitavos.com

WHERE TO EAT

FORTALEZA DO GUINCHO

Classical décor and modern cuisine by Chef Miguel Rocha Vieira. Excellent wines.

 

Estrada do Guincho, Cascais

Tel. (+351) 214 870 491

FURNAS DO GUINCHO

Terraces with a sea view. Fish and seafood.

 

Estrada do Guincho, Cascais

Tel.: (+351) 214 869 243

PORTO DE SANTA MARIA

A classic. Fish and seafood. Try the salt fish.

 

Estrada do Guincho, Cascais

Tel. (+351) 214 879 450

As the plane descends towards the city, one quickly sees why the light of Lisbon, on a background of fado music, is so highly celebrated. Destroyed in 1755 by a powerful earthquake, the city was rebuilt in pure Pombaline style. Crossed by the Tagus River, Lisbon is a city of seven hills where the smell of grilled sardines fills the air of its distinctive neighbourhoods. It has inspired and still emulates the poetry of Fernando Pessoa, who famously wrote, “God wills, man dreams, the work is born.”

WHERE TO SLEEP

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL RITZ LISBON

Classic and sophisticated, it sits in the heart of Lisbon. An excellent restaurant and one of the city’s finest spas.

 

Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 88

Tel. (+351) 213 811 400

 

www.fourseasons.com

VALVERDE HOTEL

Boutique hotel, distinguished and contemporary. Steps away from the leading international brand stores.

 

Avenida da Liberdade, 164

Tel. (+351) 210 940 300

 

www.valverdehotel.com

MEMMO ALFAMA HOTEL

Rated by Wallpaper magazine among the world’s best urban hotels. Located in a typical neighbourhood close to the fado houses.

 

Travessa das Merceeiras, 27

Tel. (+351) 210 495 660

 

www.memmohotels.com

TOREL PALACE

A small palace built in 1902, and also a lookout point providing a striking view of Lisbon. The décor is fit for a king or queen.

 

Rua Câmara Pestana, 23

Tel. (+351) 218 290 810

 

www.torelpalace.com

WHERE TO EAT

SOLAR DOS PRESUNTOS

One of the city’s most celebrated restaurants. Three levels, five rooms with walls covered with photographs left behind by famous guests. Quintessential Minho Province cuisine served. Treat yourself a breakfast.

 

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 150

Tel. (+351) (+351) 213 424 25

PINÓQUIO

A place to enjoy traditional appetizers and dishes. Close to the theatres. The terrace is a showcase for the city’s hustle and bustle. A great place to be at any hour. Open daily from noon to midnight.

 

Praça dos Restauradores, 79

Tel. (+351) 213 465 106

LAURENTINA

It is the king of cod fish, cooked in myriad ways. Beiras and Mozambique specialties are also served. Lunch and dinner. (Find out on what nights you can catch a fado show.)

 

Av. Conde Valbom, 71 A

Tel. (+351) 217 960 260

ALMA

In the heart of the Chiado neighbourhood, Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa returns with a creative cuisine featuring surprising combinations. Informal atmosphere.

 

R. Anchieta, 15

Tel. (+351) 213 470 650

O JACINTO

Traditional dishes with modern presentation and a varied wine list. Lunch and dinner.

 

Av. Ventura Terra, 2

Tel. (+351) 217 591 728

TIME OUT MERCADO DA RIBEIRA

More than 40 food and drink locations. Discover the gastronomic offerings of some of Portugal’s great chefs—Alexandre Silva, Henrique Sá Pessoa, Marlene
Vieira, Miguel Castro e Silva and Miguel Laffan—at very attractive prices. Find a variety of preserves, wines and souvenirs. Monday to Wednesday from 10 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Thursday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to midnight.

 

Av. 24 de Julho, 50

Tel. (+351) 213 462 966

RAMIRO

In business for over half a century, it is the seafood place. Enjoy crab, gooseneck barnacle, lobster, garlic shrimp or clams Bulhão Pato. Round off the meal with a prego, a traditional steak sandwich. Prices suitable for all budgets. From noon to midnight, closed on Mondays.

 

Av. Almirante Reis, 1

Tel. (+351) 218 851024

LOCO

Chef Alexandre Silva’s restaurant invites you to an unusual gastronomic experience where no dish is what it seems, and where customers eat with their eyes as much as they do with their stomachs. Arrive with an open mind and enjoy a 14- or 18-moment tasting menu. High prices. Dinner only.

 

Rua dos Navegantes, 53B

Tel. (+351) 213 951 861

PASTÉIS DE BELÉM

Cakes are everywhere in the city, but the recipe for these has been a well-kept secret since 1837. Bet you’ll be having more than one!

 

Rua de Belém, 84-91

Tel. (+351) 213 637 423

GELADOS SANTINI

Famous artisanal ice cream. Expect to line up for it! Open every day from 11 a.m. to midnight.

 

Rua do Carmo, 9

Tel. (+351) 213 468 431

GINJINHA

Having belonged to the same family since 1840, it’s a favourite in the capital. A liquor made from morello cherries (ginja in Portuguese), the type of berry it is named after. It is sweet and inexpensive. To be enjoyed with or without berries. Todos os dias, das 9h às 20h.

 

Largo de São Domingos, 8

PLACES TO VISIT

CASTELO DE SÃO JORGE

A former royal residence. The view of the city is breathtaking and unique. Not to be missed for any reason. Accessible by foot, bus or rickshaw.

OCEANÁRIO DE LISBOA

Inaugurated in 1902 to link the Baixa district to Carmo Square, it is the city’s only vertical funicular. Its cast iron structure has been declared a national monument. As for the view, it seriously competes with Saint George’s Castle. Open every day from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

 

www.oceanario.pt

MOSTEIRO DOS JERÓNIMOS

This Manueline monastery was built in the 16th century during the golden age of Portuguese maritime exploration. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It houses the tombs of the Portuguese navigator Vasco de Gama and the Portuguese poet Luís Vaz de Camões.

NIGHTLIFE

Fado – Portuguese music performed by a solo singer accompanied by a Portuguese guitar. It reflects the soul of the Lusitanian people.

S. MIGUEL D’ALFAMA

Located in the heart of the Alfama neighbourhood, it serves classic Portuguese appetizers, but the main dish always remains the fado music. Open daily from 7:00 p.m. to midnight.

 

Rua de São Miguel, 9-17

Tel. (+351) 968 554 422

OTHER FADO HOUSES

Adega Machado; Café Luso;Senhor do Vinho; Clube de Fado; Tasca do Chico.

BAIRRO ALTO

A typical neighbourhood with restaurants and bars for all tastes.

LUX FRÁGIL

The city’s trendiest club. Features DJs (electro and alternative music) and live music.

 

Av. Infante D. Henrique, Sta. Apolónia

Tel. (+351) 218 820 890

RED FROG SPEAKEASY

A speakeasy bar with an extensive cocktail list.

 

Rua do Salitre, 5A

Tel. 215 831 120

BEACHES

The most beautiful ones on the south shore of the Tagus.

Costa da Caparica – Surf – www.kevolutionsurf.com – Kitesurf – Fonte da Telha – www.kitesurfway.com

ARRABIDA

Small beaches at the foot of cliffs between the sea and the Arrábida Mountain.

TROIA

Accessible by ferry from Setúbal across the Sado Estuary dolphin habitat.

Birthplace of fado music and port wine, Portugal has become a real tourist craze in recent years, and Quebec travelers are no exception. Reasons abound in a country of myriad attractions ranging from quaint authentic villages to mesmerizing cities and endless coastal beaches and, last but not least, the quasi-legendary local hospitality.

 

The LUXE team wanted to introduce you to this special country through the words of someone who knows it from whiten and could describe it to us the way one talks about an old friend. The name of Carlos Ferreira immediately came to mind. For the past twenty years, the owner of Ferreira group of restaurants has been a true ambassador for Portugal by sharing his passion for the country’s gastronomy and culture with Quebecers. With typical generosity, he agreed to share the best adresses and his dining, hospitality, and activity favorites with our readers. From Lisbon to the Douro region though Coimbra, his travel diary will help you plan an unforgettable stay.

 

Lisbon

Cascais

Sintra

Coimbra

Porto

Bairrada

Alentejo

Algarve

This spring has been very exciting on the NYC art scene! Women history month has offered, fantastic viewings and will continue to do so until the end of May. The Biennial has been one of the most highly regarded of the kind and the museum and gallery program very stimulating. After the great hearing of the great success Art Basel Hong Kongwas, we are all waiting for Frieze at the beginning of May. In between, there is so much to see…

THE WHITNEY MUSEUM BIENNAL

The first to be hosted in the Renzo Piano building, the 2017 Whitney Biennial is the talk of the town. It is smart and eye catching. The works engage you politically and aesthetically. Diversity, censorship and the power of representation are central themes to the show. The artists represented come from a broad range of backgrounds, in terms of gender, maturity, ethnicity and origins. The difficult balancing act achieved here is nevertheless not without controversy! Strong protest over Dana Schutz’s “Open Casket” — a portrait of Emmett Till at his funeral — is shaking and dividing the art world. One scandal should not take away the rigor of the show. Go and see it for yourself. Besides, you’ll be able to join the debate: should art that disturbs and angers be censored?

GALLERY HIGHLIGHTS

Bill Jacobson’s figure,ground — Julie Saul Gallery 535 West 22nd St. New York

Award-winning photographer Bill Jacobson is showing his new work at Julie Saul’s. The pictures present people turned away from us, looking at a diffused landscape. The series unusual proposition is a meditation on our relationship to others, to the gaze and nature. The large-scale color prints have beautiful matte surfaces and a calm, sensual presence. There is a wealth of tonal variations in the softness of the palette. Light radiates around the characters. Jacobson comes close to a pictorial romanticism where hubris has no place and is replaced by a precise exposure of humanity.

 

Bill Jacobson “figure, ground”, 2017. Courtesy of Julie Saul Gallery.

HONORING WOMEN HISTORY MONTH

Pat Lipsky stain paintings — Gerald Peters Contemporary, 24 East 78th Street New York

About 40 years ago, Pat Lipsky decided to put some of her early contributions away, unseen and undocumented. Works from the same period, 1960’s and early 70’s, had put her on the map as a great colorist. She was one of the few women of the second wave of Abstract expressionism to get as much recognition. The works attracted major museums attention and jumpstarted her career. It is easy to see why. This spring, 11 of her yet unseen early lyrical abstractions are making their debut on the New York art scene. The unprimed canvases covered with radiant colors bring light to the gallery’s blue walls. After all these years, the multi- colored waves are as fresh as on the first day. The painter’s energetic, physical gestures create spontaneous and lively marks. Paint moves across the canvas with velocity, splashing around joyfully.

 

 Pat Lipsky “Glowing”, 2017. Courtesy of Gerald Peters Contemporary.

Sue Ferguson Gussow’s Recent Works FRONT art space, 118 Chambers Street New York

Sue Gussow is eighty-one and knows a few things about drawing. There is much to learn from her contemporary interior figurations. The show gathers 20 of her pastel and charcoal drawings from the last few years and a couple of paintings. The drawn line is firm, the color applied with economy and intelligence. The pastels light up the surface. Akin to Degas’ space, the rooms are minimally sketched and manifested by the presence of the object. Gussow draws in ways that remind us of the great 19th century European tradition: her eye is sophisticated, her hand unhesitant. The melancholic beauty of her empty dress and faded flowers, are tokens of the passing of time, memories of performances and beauties once there. But in no way do they point to the fading of her artistry; just to the opposite.

 

Sue Gussow Dance Gown, 2013. Gracieuseté de FRONT art space.

Kazuko Miyamoto – Zürcher Gallery, 33 Bleecker Street, New York

This highly anticipated Kazuko Miyamoto solo show presents the wide range of her enduring artistic practice. The exhibition samples a few of her striking thread pieces and her expressive wood and paper constructions. Numerous paintings and objects document the many ways she left traces on surfaces and in space, including her performance work. Miyamoto’s contribution is essential to understanding the dynamic role women played in post-war American art and the diversity of their cultural references. Miyamoto’s sophisticated and instinctive work is remarkably articulated in its relationship to space and light. Her work is experiential and transformative. It brings to post-minimalist aesthetic a humanity and warmth seldom seen.

 

Kazyko Miyamoto “Lines from semi circle”, 2009. Courtesy of Zürcher gallery.

 

Text: Barbara Stehle

Cover: Larry Bell “Pacific Red II”. Courtesy of Whitney Biennial.

A bistro, a bar and an underground forest that turns into a nightclub: Le Soubois invites lovers of good cheer and festive music to a multisensory experience in this unusual fairyland setting, right in the heart of downtown Montréal.

 

We had barely crossed the restaurant’s doorstep when the projected image of a lake whisked us away. In the wood-panelled stairwell, magnificent, iridescent photos of local products (morels, fiddleheads, edible flowers, etc.) led us toward the ambiance of a warm and stylish cabin. Past the bookshelf, a door allowed a glimpse of a hidden bar. Beside it lay the “sous-bois”, or “underbrush”. Scandinavian style tables arranged around impressive decorative trees whose leaves are simulated by a suspended ceiling invited us to relax and reminded us of the enchanted forests we dreamed about as children.

A dream team

Alexandre Brosseau came up with the concept after a trip to Finland. Brosseau, who owns Speakeasy, a marketing agency, and has spent many years in the restaurant industry (Les Enfants Terribles, Velvet Speakeasy, Flyjin), wanted “to create somewhere for people to have a multi-faced experience combining gastronomy with visual and musical stimuli.” He also wanted to highlight local products. Along with a solid team of Francine Brûlé (Les Enfants Terribles), Guillaume Daly, JP Hadad (Globe), Thomas H. (DJ) and lawyer Christopher Karambatsos, he used the 8,000 square feet available to him to open an elegant bistro that serves local delicacies and transforms into a nightclub in the evening.

 

A menu focussed on local delights

Inspired by Canadian products, the menu stars fresh seasonal cuisine. “Every dish includes at least one wild ingredient,” explained young chef Guillaume Daly. “We work with various local producers and change with the seasons.” Smoked sturgeon, Boileau venison, sumac and larch add their delicious and unusual flavours to the menu offerings. To accompany your meal, renowned sommelière Élyse Lambert has filled a cellar with 1,800 bottles. The establishment also called on the best mixologists in Montréal, Brendon Baxter, Andrew Whibley and Eric Jensen. Besides serving noon and evening meals, Le Soubois holds a Sunday brunch that puts a lively spin on the classics thanks to Guillaume Daly’s skilful and creative touch.

 

Rentals

Although the underground forest and the bar are transformed in the evening into hot spots (already popular with a number of celebrities), they’re also the perfect venue for private or corporate events. Several rooms of different sizes are available and can host up to 35 people.

 

In short, whether for a business lunch or a supper with friends before hitting the town, you should definitely check out Le Soubois.

 

Lunch from $20 to $30.
Sunday brunch starting at noon.

www.soubois.com

Vincent Chiara founded Groupe Mach in 2000. Specializing in the development and rental of commercial office spaces and industrial premises, the Groupe now owns about 125 buildings and a number of properties throughout the province. Among these are the Stock Exchange Tower and CIBC Tower in Montréal. LUXE met with this canny businessman to take the pulse of the real estate market in Québec.

Last year your company won the Environmental Award for the Ressource de la Montagne project. Is respecting the environment always a business priority for you?

Yes. We’ve won the award twice: last year for the Ressource de la Montagne project and in 2014 for 780 Brewster, the first multi-tenant building to obtain LEED certification. Most of our office buildings are certified either LEED or BOMA BEST.

You’ve spent several years working on transforming the former rail yards in Pointe-Saint-Charles. Is it important to you to help showcase a neighbourhood’s rich history?

The rail yards take up no less than 25% of the land in Pointe-Saint-Charles. CN used to be the largest employer in the neighbourhood. When it shut down, the site was abandoned. The land was contaminated, so redevelopment was difficult. When we acquired it, we promised CN that we would decontaminate the soil, and we promised the City of Montréal and its citizens to revitalize the area by creating jobs and building housing. This year, 1,200 homes will be available. The office space will be ready at the end of the year. In fact, 90% are already rented. We kept all the historic façade. It’s a great project.

Your firm has carved out a choice niche for itself in the real estate market in Québec. What are the keys to your success?

Our greatest accomplishment is the reputation and credibility that we’ve built up with our peers and our business and financial partners, thanks to our exceptional team of experts. We started with three employees. Today we have 55.

What is your vision of the real estate market in Québec?

It is quite different from that of the rest of Canada because of the province’s economic situation. In Montréal, you can buy a building for a fraction of its replacement value because rents are very low. It’s quite different in Toronto, for example, where rents are twice as high. That explains why so few towers have been built in the downtown in the last two decades. The newest date from 1991, and are located at 1250 René-Lévesque and 1000 De La Gauchetière West. Right now, it’s a tenants’ market, and supply exceeds demand. The situation should be more normal in 18 to 24 months.

What do you think makes Montréal a good city for real estate investment?

Montréal is the seventh most populous city in North America and has the highest number of students. There is a lot of knowledge here because of its universities. The market has a strong growth potential because rents are very low and can only go up. But our politicians have to support growth if we’re going to make any progress. Too many large real estate projects miscarry because of bureaucratic inertia. It’s a crying shame. Toronto has become the city of head offices, but I believe that Montréal has the potential to become the city of conferences. The French language gives it a charm that you don’t find in American cities. A number of industries, such as video gaming, IT and pharmaceuticals, develop quite well here but could be doing even better. We also need to facilitate immigration by foreign students. In Toronto, 90% of growth comes from immigration.

What criteria and factors need to be considered before investing in a real estate project?

Criteria vary based on the investors’ experience level. In the past 15 years lots of people have gone into real estate because the stock market fluctuates so much. Certain real estate sectors have lower risks and require less knowledge and fewer relationships, especially the residential sector. It’s not very complicated to manage buildings with 10 to 200 units. Many owners do it themselves and hire a superintendant. Investors who have a network and a bit of experience find that buying commercial, industrial or office building presents a manageable risk. Of course, the more an investor is involved in development the more he or she needs expertise to generate value.

What do you imagine Montréal will be like in ten years’ time?

You just have to live here to realize how spoiled we are. There aren’t very many big cities where you can live downtown even if you earn less than $60,000 a year. Unlike New York, Paris or Toronto, in Montréal you can rent a downtown apartment for $800 a month and eat in a high-class restaurant for a reasonable price. This accessibility allows us to have an exceptional quality of life. What’s missing is a political opening to create wealth. People have adopted a new lifestyle. These days families raise their children in condos, something that used to be unheard of. Downtown needs to develop more. So I hope that in ten years Montréal will be as dynamic as it deserves to be thanks to greater political openness.

 

Mr. Chiara will be speaking at the Québec City Real Estate Forum that will be held this coming April 27, as well as the Québec Real Estate Development Forum scheduled for September 27.

 

www.groupemach.com

 

Text: Diane Stehle